2009 English
translated by google so a lot to be desired , I will translate it properly when I have a little spare time
Croatia 2009
July 27 Day 1 Verudela
Yesterday we went after a trip of two days around 4 pm afternoons arrived in Verudela. Mad to be here again. We are two years gone, but there is nothing to suggest that. It seems like we never left. Very familiar.
About the trip: we are ‘the morning at 10.35 am leaving on Saturday, July 25th with Karnic car and the trailer. With only a few break up without difficulty until the evening 22:50 pm drove. End point of the day was Eben im Pongau in Austria. Since the beds in a car park between the truck and a couple of hours sleep in the cabin. Attempt to. It was cold at night! The two sleeping bags we had with it were barely enough. The next morning after a cup of coffee and a little breakfast in the diner went off again. Mid-afternoon had reached the destination.
Because on Sunday nobody crane clerk put the trailer with boat on the wharf and at first but once settled the harbor papers in Pula. Fortunately, they work as well on Sunday. Furthermore eaten pivo a well-deserved drink on the terrace and in the evening pizza at the tent on the street corner. Unfortunately, it seemed that there was a new owner and the quality of the pizza there was a lot to suffer. Pity. Yet equally delicious on the rocks looking out to sea and then at the jetty two years ago to see if Franz was still there. His boat had afternoons already see, and the sailboat of a Dutch couple we had just talked two years ago. The rules on ligplekken foreigners have apparently not yet been implemented. Had we the Bayliner may be able to leave anyway. Well, afterwards, afterwards.
Armed with beer and his beloved Dutch cheese, and with the realization that he did not know who we are, we arrived at his boat. He was ‘home’ and had, of course, visit. Miraculously, he immediately knew who we were and after visiting them returned to the restaurant to eat, we sat down at his table on the dock. He was extremely happy to see us and much happier with the cheese we brought. Unfortunately it turned out to less well with his health. A bag full of medications and frequent hospital visits must ensure that its failure, moisture remain manageable after lung and stomach cancer. We are very shocked by this news and we wonder how long he can remain in his simple life in this beautiful country enjoy.
Meanwhile, his mood and daily schedule hardly suffer all these things. He still sailing every day and dives into bays hours for clams. Admirable and we hope that he is still very long so can sustain. Pain he did not, thanks to the heavy medication. Keep it like that!
After a short but good night (not cold anymore!) Got up this morning at 6 am and see the sunrise. We did not want the tap servants would have to wait on us and our timing turned out perfect. Around 8 o’clock the boat is neatly hoisted into the water, and at 10 pm we were set on our current place on scaffolding 4 with the cabin full of luggage, bimini’s, coolers in place and the TT blown up behind the boat.
New rules make passers only pay demurrage per day, so we have given us for three days in this port. The car and the trailer remain here three weeks. Also paid immediately but two tap turns, that’s just arranged.
Overnight here E16, – per day, the trailer is E2,25 per day and the car is free. The crane costs E60 – a time.
Since we after a short visit to the supermarket in Veruda were ready at 10am we have to buy bottled water, set sail on our Enjoyed. It was a question of finding the best way to confirm the dinghy. Upright with the point up or ‘drag’ with mirror appear at the point right now the best options. We decided to sail to the small island Fenoliga and have a few hours a fabulous, swimming and healthy. And already burned a little, of course. It is so hard here!
We refueled on the way back, 123 liters for 910 kuna. The analog meter gives no ‘Full’, so probably not completely filled. In the evening peacefully seated with a glass of wine in the tub and then eaten mackerel now familiar here in the restaurant for us. Time to go to bed.
July 28 Day 2 Mali Losinj
Start: 306.8 13:15
Final: 308.9 15.30 Cruising Hours: 2.1
Today made the ‘cross’ and we feel that the journey really began. We had beautiful weather, small waves and a bit of wind so better conditions we could not have wished for. We are in danger without bouncing around an hour to the other side. As a bonus we saw a family of dolphins on the coast of Unije! First in the distance, but soon we were there close and they jumped 50 meters from the boat from the water. Insanely beautiful.
But it was even crazier. Just when I was a dolphin swam RIGHT clambered to the tip of the boat there UNDER THE POINT !! With the camera ready unfortunately turned out to be a one-time action. I’ve got to make some pictures and videos, but they are so quick to see many pictures nothing. Moreover, they do not do justice to the experience of the moment and is not good about how close they actually were. Sometimes you just forget the camera and enjoy the moment!
Because we wanted to be sure of a place in the port of Mali Losinj we immediately sailed and at about half past four we were at the dock. There are predicted for tonight strong winds (30-40 knots wind 5) so we do not take risks. Nice to be here again, this is really a beautiful village. Again just walked around and visited the church and us amazed at all the old streets, old doors, old shutters and peeling paint. What a picture. In the evening eaten pizza (much better than in Verudela!) And on the back deck with a glass of wine all star looking asleep.
July 29 Day 3 Zapuntel
Start: 308.9 at 10.40 am
Final: 311.8 16.30 Cruising Hours: 2.9
With the wind appeared to fall awfully happy. Some felt and heard, but we have an hour less to sleep. After a breakfast of fruit and a long shower turn in the beautiful marina building (modern clean toilets and good sized showers), we are just after mid 11 this morning gone. First fueling (50 liters, completely full) and then through Silba to Olib. There Spend a few hours in a bay, swimming and made a walk around the island. It was very hot but well worth the effort. On the island are everywhere walls of loosely stacked pieces of rock to separate soil from each plot. In between running partly passable gravel paths. Everything is pretty overgrown and it is clear some time ago that there is intensive use is made of. Armed with a large bottle of water, we hoped to reach the village from the “main trail” that we had seen on the map. Unfortunately, there appeared still after 20 minutes to be no prospect of a village, let alone at the end of the gravel path, so we decided to return. Wet with sweat and with a bottle that was more empty than full, we went back to the small boat and sailed back to the boat. When first have taken a dip and later sailed to Zapuntel where we (for the 3rd time now!) Will spend the nadcht.
There is now a lush westerly pressed to come out and immediately makes it quite a lot cooler than we are used to so far. The thermometer says 29C but it feels in the wind as 23C.
July 30 Day 4 Telašćica
Start: 311.8 10.15
Final: 315.5 17.00 Cruising Hours: 3.7
The wind appeared yesterday to be caused by a high pressure coming and that we could today good marks. As at 8am the mercury had risen to over 30C and that’s actually remained so throughout the day.
A beautiful journey made today along the northern side of Dugi Otok by Zverinacki channel Ravski channel and Lavdarski channel. Bozava by means of anchor as the beginning of Dugi Otok to sail into a cove in the mountains with a small boat. There are a number of these recesses or tunnels in this area, and these were used in ancient times in order to hide in submarines. Very nice to see inside all the main aim today is a breeding ground for a sizeable colony of swallows.
Later something beyond Dragove located in a beautiful bay, swimming, snorkeling and healthy. Refueling plane for Sali (120 liters) and then full throttle to Mala Proversa, where two years ago we had been through the fire.
The black trees are still there as silent witnesses of that night, but fortunately nature can recover quickly and we have also been a lot of new trees and shrubs,
We wanted to spend the night, but we were a bit on the late side (half 5) so all the buoys were unfortunately occupied. But then sailed to Telascica where we are now in a wide bay to a buoy for the night. Unfortunately, we now have to miss nice restaurant Mala Proversa, but we just at the market boat bread and vegetables so hungry we will not be bought.
July 31 Day 5 Prvic-Luka
Start: 315.5 10.30
Final: 318.4 15.00 Cruising Hours: 2.9
With our sleeping tonight we proved lucky in several ways. On the island that formed the bay is a saltwater lake that we wanted to visit. Two years ago we were so close, Mala Proversa, but when we have not been there. So last night to be with the tender to the other side and it turned out that even a restaurant! First visited the saltwater lake (beautiful) and then the sign “cliffs” and then, on the island southwards up. A steep climb as equally unexpected, not far but quite steep anyway. We felt immediately that we had made the right decision in the evening to play tourist, because the trip was the hottest to do hardly the day. Now the sun was going down and pieces were less powerful, the sweat ran us over back.
Once above the magnificent view was our reward. Really fantastic. The steep vertical cliffs on one side illuminated by the orange sun. On the other hand if silouet the frame of a beautiful sunset over the calm sea. Swallows flew back and forth and it was clear to us that nature here directs. This bombastic final scene was the climax of the piece and got us, besides the obvious photo coverage, a standing ovation.
In the restaurant after dinner rasnicy reasonable and in the dark back to the boat dangers. Fortunately we hadde a small flashlight with us on my key ring boat (the ship flashlight “of course we had left on board) was different here still been quite an adventure.
had a quiet night, but warm with a nice breeze. Because we had no inkijkers we cockpit left open (normally we zippers in the evening two sides and a rear portion fixed to the rear bimini creating a “tent” is created). The whole evening no one came for demurrage to the boat, not even to collect 200 kuna for the national park where Telascica part.
This morning at 10:30 am gone without taking anyone for free so stayed the night in Telascica!
We are now in Prvic-Luka, an island / fishing village which mainly appear to be homes for vacationers, several restaurants, a post office, a church and a town harbor. We are now at the passers jetty, which is a fixed breakwater at the beginning of the bay where this village is. The jadrolinija scheduled lay here, as we have this afternoon may enjoy a terrace. With a pivo in the hand, of course.
At the request of the captain a bit of information on the availability at the various ports:
Verudela Bunarina: advance discussed so how it is with in walking we do not know. We paid 18 euros per day demurrage. There is a crane (60 euros each), a restaurant in the port and superiors in the village 5 minutes walk. Good toilets, reasonable showers. Water and electricity.
Mali Losinj: ACI port and on the last side. We paid 268 kuna for one night (100 kuna is currently about 16 euros, so that comes at + – 50 euros). No crane seen, but several floating jetties which is applied to size. Very good, modern, spacious restrooms and showers. Water and electricity. Great inside barrel of ± 16.00 to 17.30, then the port is pretty much full.
Zapuntel: a hard landing but it is usually full. The ferry lays here. There is also a harbor town for a few small boats. No other facilities before the village is too small. Two restaurants and a shop. we were 98 kuna lost one night to a buoy. This is in the course of the evening cashed by an elderly gentleman in a fishing boat who loves Amsterdam, Rotterdam and like enumerates all the places where he has been ever. Two groups of buoys for the village, one across the bay. Usually, this one empty seat, sometimes wide range around 16.00 / 17.00.
Here Prvic-Luka we paid 182 kuna. There is a shower and two toilets (1 m and 1 dc) in a small building on the jetty. All revenue passers get them a key that one has to do when leaving the mounted on the outside mailbox. Toilet is neat and clean, showers not tested at time of writing. Fortunately, the jetty is not very long queue for shower or toilet by 15 passers will hopefully do. There is water and we flow (after dark). The magnificent sunset is free.
August 1 Day 6 Prvic-Luka
Start: 318.4 at 12.00
Final: 322.0 19.00 Cruising Hours: 3.6
Last night we have done in the restaurant at the beginning of the “pier” feast on grilled mackerel and fish to swim well. The wine, the meal, and sought out this nice village (be) were good, maybe a little bit too well. The trip back to the boat and especially the boarding was an adventure in itself, vooraql that the dinghy, which we use as a gangplank, they affect under low water anderhalven meters below had come to rest against the quay.
This morning we used to put out the rest of our route and plan what we wanted to do today.
Decided today to make the waterfalls of Krka, not far from here. Let departed, at noon, and at Skradin in a bay thrown out the anchor. Beyond the blue bridge one should not sail their own boat, so a second anchor there for the security and the dinghy into the harbor. There (next to the playing field, large glass building, poorly marked!) Bought tickets for the boat to the falls, 95 kn per person. After a ride of 20 minutes by the crowd along the boat, the dock and on to the falls.
Especially the lower pools are very busy and serve as an outdoor swimming pool, including lawn and food stalls. After a couple of stone steps up (with smooth stones!) Some very nice uitkijkjes and impressive pictures. Our verdict: it’s touristy, certainly down, but beautiful scenery is beautiful nature. There is little to barter.
At 5 pm we were back at our boat (lie neatly), and because we were late, we decided to sail back to Prvic-Luka, where we are now going to spend a second night. Overnight in Skradin was also possible there’s a ACI port, but although modern and well equipped which usually quite pricey. So if deer here we can prov honor to ACIs ignore. Moreover we had last seen late coming here P: rvic-Luka is not very. On the scaffold is at 4 or 5 o’clock in the afternoon too place. This was confirmed when we arrived here at 19.00 and our boat could easily lose.
Tonight there seems to be a party in the neighboring village, so we will soon once again take a look. We have also heard that there is great south wind would be coming (weather does not say anything about that), so how does tomorrow we do not know. We want to fill in Sibenik and as the sea that bad direction Trogir and the island of Solta. We will see. To be continued … (Q exciting music)
August 2 Day 7 Rogac (Solta)
Start: 322.0 at 10:45 pm
Final: 326.0 at 16:00 Cruising Hours: 4.0
The wind was there, but the sea gods were favorable to us. We felt the resistance of the waves on the boat (and fuel consumption) but made no detonators or water accumulated on the deck. The passage at Trogir is narrow and the fixed bridge can not open and where you need underneath comparable to the average bridge in Amsterdam. With our level of less than 2 meters fortunately no problem and a familiar experience.
Trogir has a very nice view from the water. It looks like they have put all the beautiful buildings on the edge so that passing boats they can admire. The old stone houses with turrets and versieerde window frames do almost arabic, certainly with the palm trees that stand before and the sun turns everything yellow gold. Fortunately today we do not in photo rolls of 36 and fit on the digital camera card data snapshots enough for me to live out.
Trogir and later the coast of Split, we soon noticed that it is a lot warmer here than in Pula, Kornati and Sibenik. While stopping here in Rogac we slunk off almost from the deck. We must not think now without sailing bimini. Anyway not really, but here you disappear within half an hour with blisters on your forehead by the well of the bilge pump.
This is also a very nice port. Small, picturesque (if you INA petrol station and the dock for the ferry to Split just forget) and jovial. We are tonight at 80 knots with the nose against the stone quay. We have power seen whether there is water we do not know, the harbor master (Type old captain, unfortunately, smokes cigarettes instead of pipe) said that there are two restaurants, a coffee shop where we can go to the toilet, a bakery for bread tomorrow and shower across the street.
It is 20:00, the sun has disappeared behind the island and it is cooling down. Just gave the thermometer in the cabin “only” at 30C instead of 38C this afternoon. So so but even a bite to eat here and this cute plaatstje explore a bit. With a camera, of course.
Additional: tanked in Sibenik this morning, 123 liters.
August 3 Day 8 Rogac
engine hours: 0
Today we went to Split by ferry and there jadrolinija viewed the city. Very nice old town, much of which is still intact from the Roman period. We have (in our opinion) pragmatic spirit of the Croat seen with my own eyes. Of preservation have them there little sense, they live just there! In the city wall, inside the palace, above and beside the temple; everywhere you see on laundry lines and children play just to “their” street. That there hordes of tourists walk which always take pictures and wave run with the Lonely Planet, oh well. There, they seem not so much to attract. Tourists are occasionally just a great speelkameraardje, as a boy of about 4 years in an alley next to the temple that precious amused by Rene twice to ‘shoot’ with a plastic pistol, meanwhile oriented very inte rational “flies” calling.
We had just that day been daring ondat less good weather and a rough sea was set. Indeed, there were waves with white heads and the wind was quite strong, so we were happy on the ferry not to have gone with their own boat. The predicted clouds and rain held off, but in the evening on the ferry we saw back later called a thunderstorm in action.
August 4 Day 9 Rogac
Cruising Hours: 0
Today lie because the weather forecast was not favorable. There were quite a few clouds in the sky and later in the day moved into the helelmaal. Ships left the port might come often within walking an hour later, putting us in any case gave the feeling to have made the right decision.
Nice swim, snorkel and read and in turn fed the fish while the other watched underwater. Great! The water is so clear that colors can be admired and the fish were not afraid of anything. So we could snorkel quiet middle school and amazed to watch how everything is going on under water.
In the afternoon made a nice walk to the mini-market in the village on the mountain (Gohotes). Along the highway winding up and meanwhile eating figs from the many fig trees which stand there, lovely!
The view above what we had on the bay was fantastic! Unfortunately we had let the camera lying on the boat …
In the evening cozy a drink at the Italian neighbors on their sailboat. Very cozy and very friendly people. We exchanged information, but not the name of their boat is Mamosa.
It was nice because they have left in Pula, but are drawn up along south to Rab and Cres, while we do it Uist on the way back.
Later delicious dinner that night at a restaurant just around the corner of the bay; a terrace with sea views. Lovely day, very satisfied fallen asleep.
August 5 Day 10 Murter, Betina port
Start: 326.0 at 11:00 am
End: to 330.0 + – 16:00 Cruising Hours: 4.0
BORA! We are at the Jetty of the port Betina on the island Murter. The wind hits us pretty ears and whistles here by the masts. The sun shines volopen with only a single cloud is a misleading picture.
We are well protected behind the concrete jetty and a large yacht for us also takes some wind. But when we peek over the edge, we see aggressive waves and nozzles at the breakwaters. All in all a violent event. Glad we are fixed!
We wanted to make mileage today and that is well done, the sea became impassable. We actually wanted to come to Mala Proversa, but the bora threw a spanner in the works.
We do not know how long this is going to hold back, but as it looks now, we will provisionally go anywhere. The forecasts also keeps coming hefty NW wind after the bora and let it just be the side where we want to go …
(This morning tanked in Rogac, 84 liters)
August 6 Day 11 Zapuntel
Start: 330.0 at 12.45
End: to 332.9 + – 17.00 Sailing Hours: 2.9
Tanked at Murter + – 120 liters
Left late because of the bora. had Restless night, fortunately without dramatic developments. The weerstberichten were unfavorable, the bora would attract further. The waves, however, seemed to be less aggressive and the wind seemed slightly less hard than before. Moreover, many boats perform in the course of the morning, so at the beginning of the afternoon we followed their example.
First destination after refueling was Nin, a small old village past Zadar. It soon became clear that it would not work because of the wind and lack of filling stations that would take us to the planned Rab and Krk. There were strong winds predicted from the NW and moreover threat of storm in the Velebit channel.
Decided alternative then but to go a little further south and travel as we arrived around five at Zapuntel.
This village has become a real focal point for our excursions for us. The dot and give the lines on the map on every return trip off or an overnight stay at Zapuntel on.
In the evening dinner at the restaurant on the corner which is clearly better prepare fish than meat. Rene chop was just badly, opposite was a very generous and delicious sea bass we opgesmikkeld along the ridge.